“I was thinking mostly about the cornerstones of what winter actually means for clothing,” says Nick Wakeman, creative director and founder of Studio Nicholson. “It’s ultimately about outerwear and knitwear, texture and strong fabrics.” Images from the 1990s of actors such as Michelle Pfeiffer in a plaid shirt and houndstooth tailored coat or Kim Basinger in a mannish overcoat clutching a blanket were on Wakeman’s reference board. Gus Van Sant’s book ‘108 Portraits’ continues to be a reference; the men’s Ray cotton check shirt is a
homage to River Phoenix.
She was also thinking about Martin Margiela and Japanese architect Tadao Ando. “Ando is always on the moodboard,” smiles Wakeman, holding up a picture from 1989 of the visionary and his team. “I love how his team are just dressed in the most brilliantly essential way. No one is dressed the same but the mood is so succinct. Exactly how I want Studio Nicholson to feel.”
One of Wakeman’s favourite fabrics for Winter 24 which features across the menswear and womenswear collections is a double cotton plaid. “It just creates really strong shapes,” Wakeman says. The women’s Denali oversized overcoat is belted at the waist whilst on men’s, both the Brooke overcoat and the Slip blazer feature silhouettes that “toe the line between that certain Studio Nicholson volume but with a sharp structured finish,” she says.
"I was thinking mostly about the cornerstones of what winter actually means for clothing"
Another key unisex fabric for Winter 24 is a new shiny showerproof tech poly. “This is definitely our nod to 1970s skiwear,” says Wakeman. “There are so many boring down jackets around that we wanted to do something that had a point of view, and the point of view is shiny, but in such a good way.” Considered design details also elevate: from
a cowboy yoke in the back of the women’s Dana hooded jacket to the shape of the men’s Loft down jacket which is roomy without being bulky.
Knitwear in signature Studio Nicholson relaxed and oversized shapes, shoulders often dropped, detailing kept minimal, is rendered this season in the likes of English lambswool, soft boiled wool, mohair aran and an alpaca merino mix. A crew neck in mohair aran - 80% wool, 20% mohair - is a favourite of Wakeman’s across both menswear and womenswear. “I really like the twist of the yarn. It’s pleasing seeing navy and brown twisted together,” she says.
On womenswear a high loft wool - used for pieces including oversized vests such as the Poros - gives off the air of a boucle. Meanwhile, on menswear an oversize crew knit - the Vico - comes in an alpaca merino mix, in tones of darkest navy and natural marl evoking the Swedish coastal landscape where the Winter 24 campaign was shot. A super soft-boiled wool is used across both collections on simple cardigans and high-neck knits;
on menswear it is also used for the Iwaki, a neat zip-through.
Distinct and discreet overcoat shapes for women this season include the double cotton plaid Denali, with a belted waist, oversized finish and dropped collar. The Weir comes in recycled double tweed and features a neat shoulder and articulated sleeve whilst best-seller Ria - an oversized classic in Melton wool - returns this Winter in black, dark navy and espresso.
Other womenswear pieces of note, include the Joyce blazer with its collarless finish, the multi-functional belted shirt dress Mor, the boxy draped Emmet top, and the Carson skirt which is essentially the skirt iteration of the best-selling Studio Nicholson Dordoni pant. The latter comes in black or grey, is pleated with volume which gives it a sculpted bell-like shape. These separates are all designed to work hard in a new or existing Studio Nicholson wardrobe.
Launches Tuesday 17th September
