"Noisy Japanese Cotton Nylon. A certain ecclesiastical mood. UPS driver’s getups.
A typewriter cotton. 80's and 90's American sportswear. Greengrocer jackets. Bonded leather.” Nick Wakeman, creative director and founder of Studio Nicholson is unpicking the various creative threads that led to Spring '25 across the menswear and womenswear collections.“As always, it began with excitement over fabrics and where those could potentially lead us. But of course, along the way, various subplots emerged which have given way to a collection that features a lot of long silhouettes, a kind of softness, and a handful of strong yet steady wardrobe archetypes, such as a varsity or donkey jacket and a 90s fit jean, all of which I’m very into,” she says.
The men’s and women’s wardrobes continue to cross at Studio Nicholson, and the idea of unisex garments is being continually explored. One of the season’s key pieces is the Alph varsity jacket in darkest navy and black, which is discreetly nonchalant whether styled with a dress or jean. The women’s collection features a bonded leather black coat that nods to the idea of a men’s donkey jacket - the Ridger, which is simultaneously soft yet tough.
The Riso jean in a worn washed indigo might officially be a men’s shape but Wakeman sees this 90's style as a look she herself and no doubt many other women will ultimately embrace. It’s rendered in 14oz Regen denim in washed black or worn wash indigo and is a simple straight cut. Very the Viper Room. Meanwhile, the just-below-the-knee tailored Joshua short - breezy, effortless, pleat front - in parchment and darkest navy is elegantly cut to work for both men and women.
Other newness in tailoring for Spring '25 is led for women by the Silas jacket in parchment or black, crafted in textured double cotton, it features a subtle slope drop shoulder and a leather belt with metal belt fastening detail at the waist that gives it a classic Studio Nicholson unfussy neatness. On men’s, the Seth one-button suit jacket in oil is finished in fluid viscose wool and boasts a strong, squarish shoulder. “I think this shape just feels very now in menswear but also isn’t trendy which of course I hate,” laughs Wakeman.
"Noisy Japanese Cotton Nylon. A certain ecclesiastical mood. UPS driver’s getups. A typewriter cotton. 80's and 90's American sportswear. Greengrocer jackets. Bonded leather."
Another distinctive new addition to the Studio Nicholson wardrobe - and a slight shift in pant perspective - is the women’s Vlore trouser in oil and made in fluid viscose wool. “The Vlore is refreshingly narrow with a super sharp crease front for which I am excited about the reaction,” says Wakeman. “I like its concise leanness.”
Wakeman is also buoyed about long silhouettes on womenswear. “I’m very into long,” says Wakeman. “We definitely looked at the way nuns dress,” she smiles. “The details of the construction of their clothing and its kind of severity. An image by Charles Traub of three nuns window shopping in Rome in the 80's in off-white habits and black headscarves I found myself a bit obsessed by.” Dresses such as the Reva in black or the Enna in dove offer a pared-back ecclesiastical flourish while new dress shape the Leat in darkest navy in a modal habotai, is shorter and boasts gathered folds in its front. “I love the Leat styled over the Vlore pant,” says Wakeman. Skirts such as the Hirta in straw or the Fuse in conker also excel in this lengthy mood, both with a sense of volume, the latter with pleats.
In addition to Wakeman’s obsession with brown and the season’s various pieces captured in conker - that also include the Sperro pant and the Bute top - an adjacent and integral colour for Spring '25 is parcel. Inspired by a combination of Wakeman’s love for greengrocer jackets and UPS delivery ensembles, several key pieces across menswear and womenswear are given the parcel treatment. On men’s the Crowe trench, Towa barn jacket, Ruskin shirt and Bosworth trouser are all typically purposeful in design without frippery or fuss - Towa is cropped just below the waist. For women, the Kukes shirt, Doring pant and Acuna pant all come in parcel and echo the discreet utilitarian
feeling of the menswear.
Launches Tuesday 4th February
