Stylistically and aesthetically, few other materials are as plagued by misconceptions,
poor deployment and erratic quality as knitwear. But if chosen correctly and styled
right, a small handful of the right pieces can transform your wardrobe.
New Season Knit Code - Modular Versatility by Justin Quirk
"Knitwear’s ability to look both ‘Sunday best’ and ‘Sunday not leaving the sofa’ makes it perfect for our modern high-low culture."
Knitwear is ideal for warmth and everyday wear. When its well-cut with a smart
aspect, the comfort and cosiness factors are unrivalled. It’s got a luxurious, tactile
quality like silk – but is frequently layered away under other items rather than made
the focal point of an outfit. The idea of soft wool on skin can be surprisingly sexy
– but it’s also got a charmingly OAP vibe to counterbalance that.
Historically, it’s this versatility that has seen knitwear repeatedly return to fashion but
has also meant that it can feel quite a bold choice – which is why it tends to bubble up
at times when menswear has become a little too dull and safe, because people are
pushing to have fun with clothing again. Some of jazz’s most radical minds, from
Don Cherry to Ornette Coleman were wool-friendly, pushing the sartorial envelope as
hard as the sonic one; the Ametora scene around Men’s Club magazine and the VAN
label in Japan drew direct inspiration from the American Ivy League scene with its
collegiate button-up knits; Bowie’s 1973 tour saw him in a stage costume of an off the
shoulder knitted leotard with matching patterned leggings (admittedly, not an easy
look to pull off). The very first wave of punk made use of super-soft mohair jumpers,
an item carried over from the preceding soul-boy scene. In reggae, the ‘sticksman’ era
of the late 1970s went big on Italian knitwear, through cardigans and knit shirts. In all
these cases there was an interesting contrast of extremely masculine or physically
imposing styles being confident about incorporating softer fabrics and finishes and
colourways into their outfits.
With menswear awash with muted technical fabrics and repro workwear, something
softer and more textured breaks things up and prevents homogeneity. Knitwear’s
ability to look both ‘Sunday best’ and ‘Sunday not leaving the sofa’ makes it perfect
for our modern high-low culture. Similarly, with codes around menswear and
masculinity once again loosening, there’s a certain confidence inherent in any man
(but especially the more ‘robust’ among us) experimenting with luxury fabric like
this.
"it’s power lies in its contrast to the rest of your outfit, with the colour, texture and feel of a beautiful wool item elevating everything from a suit to sportswear"
With this in mind, Studio Nicholson SS22 has a number of key knitwear pieces that
draw inspiration from the 1990s. Perhaps the most versatile is the Foss, a sleeveless
knit with a deep neckline in a series of adaptable base colours from soda white to a
dark navy. The Alpha is a slouchy, collegiate-inspired four-button cardigan with a
double white stripe to the sleeve. This comes in a deep dark navy or a bold
persimmon red for a more eye-catching look. The Teith is a quarter-zip track top,
combining knitwear with the utility of a sports garment, in a lush cherry cola. These
same colours appear across more conventional knits and lux track pants.
As with many of Studio Nicholson’s pieces, the cut is generous-to-oversized for
comfort and mobility and can be easily adapted for shape (the Foss can be tucked into
any of our pants without any bulging fabric resulting, giving a smarter finish to the
item). All work in layers, either with other knitwear items or any of our regular
cotton, denim or technical pieces.
You don’t need an entire wardrobe of knitwear – it’s power lies in its contrast to the
rest of your outfit, with the colour, texture and feel of a beautiful wool item elevating
everything from a suit to sportswear. It speaks of confidence, style and an attention to
detail – which is why it never really goes out of style.
Justin Quirk
