There’s an indisputable tribal sensation inside the world of Studio Nicholson’s uptown raver. It’s a universe that celebrates the familiarity of a friendly face, the security of togetherness, the culture and comfort of belonging. Step inside AW22 and experience the civilised nature of the ‘new casuals’.
Men's Autumn-Winter '22 - Uptown Rave
Inspiration stems from the iconic book ‘108 Portraits’, by cult film director Gus Van Sant. Straight-up, black & white frontal poses are shot with minimal lighting. What started as a low-fi project turned into a who’s who of 20th century alternative film and culture. Uptown Rave echoes the ‘baggy’ nonchalance, hedonism and freedom of the rave decade - it takes the usual Studio Nicholson smartness to a slouchier place.
The cinematic standards of on-screen personalities have inspired a silhouette loaded with personality. Characters come alive; the wearer looks just as comfortable as he feels. These are separates for living in, striking out in, looking ahead in. Clothing designed to be believable, a cocktail of plush styling and hardy, durable production.
There’s a generational connection between young and old – a Modular Wardrobe that spans age groups but manages to stay modern thanks to recognisably futuristic styling. Predictable formulas for dressing are shown the stage door, and men are encouraged to shake up the traditional with elements such as the Palme Knit; a geometric, 3-yarn jacquard jumper that brings a graphic colour odyssey to the collection.
"Uptown Rave echoes the ‘baggy’ nonchalance, hedonism and freedom of the rave decade"
Alongside the brushed cotton tan check which has been utilised for full raver appeal in the Waters Shirt, and easy-wear Helix Shorts and the wadded button-down Idaho Gilet in Flint and Dark Stone (mid 90s Keanu Reeves encapsulated).
The Road Pant in wool flannel offers a slender, grown-up lower quadrant option. The long and lean handwriting has been tailored to amplify that Uptown energy. Old school polish meets youthful rebellion. Regal janitor is ticked off the list with the matching Shears Jacket and Dillon Pant, manufactured in a technically robust, sporty cotton/poly mix. With bold rubberised tape zips this is the epitome of stripped back, workwear luxury.
Corduroy, the winter mainstay, is represented with the straight-legged Greene Pant and the Wight Jacket in evergreen Ivy. The calf-length Sampson Coat has been made in cocoa coloured recycled wool and works as an all-encompassing thermal envelope for days when the temperature takes a nosedive. Black Grape leather molecules are covered with the Kennedy Jacket.
Lupin pink flashes of superfine lambswool through the knits guarantee a playful spritz, with the Hemyl Guernsey Sweater, the Sen Cardigan and the extra-long Miles scarf finishing off the relaxed (but deliberate) subcultural jumble of Uptown Raver styling.
LEANNE CLOUDSDALE IS THE STUDIO NICHOLSON EDITOR-AT-LARGE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NIKKI MCCLARRON
Launches Thursday 21st July
